China's Anti-Ageing Industry Threatens Donkey Extinction
· fashion
The Donkey Collage Dilemma: Where Technology Meets Tradition in China’s Anti-Ageing Industry
The pursuit of eternal youth has long been a hallmark of human endeavor, with various cultures contributing their own unique rituals and products to the pantheon of anti-ageing remedies. One such product – ejiao, a 2,000-year-old Chinese medicinal concoction made from donkey hides – finds itself at the center of a contentious issue: the rapidly dwindling global donkey population.
Soaring demand for ejiao, driven by China’s expanding middle class and appetite for luxury anti-ageing products, has put immense pressure on the global donkey population. Researchers estimate that the industry requires approximately 4.8 million donkey hides annually, making it challenging to keep pace with demand. The slow reproductive rate of donkeys – typically producing one foal after a year-long pregnancy – exacerbates this issue.
The consequences are dire: donkeys are being shipped from various regions through unregulated or illegal trade networks, putting them at risk of disease and mistreatment. The African Union’s ban on the donkey skin trade in 2024 and Brazil’s subsequent ban on donkey slaughter in April have underscored the severity of this issue.
Brazilian scientists are working to develop lab-grown donkey collagen using precision fermentation. This technology involves inserting donkey collagen DNA into microorganisms such as yeast to create a protein identical to that derived from donkey skins. Carla Molento, a veterinarian and professor at the Federal University of Parana, is leading this project with the goal of delivering a scalable alternative by 2027.
Lab-grown collagen may seem like a solution to the industry’s problems, but it raises fundamental questions about the role of technology in addressing cultural traditions. As Molento’s team continues to refine their product and seek partnerships for commercial production, it is clear that this development will have far-reaching implications.
The success of lab-grown collagen would likely accelerate the shift towards more sustainable and humane sourcing practices in the industry. However, it also underscores the tension between tradition and technological innovation – a tension that will only continue to grow as the demand for luxury anti-ageing products shows no signs of slowing.
Molento’s project highlights the interconnectedness of global supply chains and the need for greater awareness among consumers about the origins of their favorite beauty products. As the ejiao industry continues to expand, it is essential that policymakers, manufacturers, and consumers prioritize transparency and accountability in sourcing practices.
Ultimately, the donkey collagen dilemma serves as a reminder that our pursuit of eternal youth comes with a cost – one that must be carefully weighed against the value we place on tradition, animal welfare, and sustainability. The clock is ticking for donkey populations worldwide, but Molento’s team remains hopeful about their project’s potential to ease pressure on these populations.
Reader Views
- NBNina B. · stylist
The ejiao industry's stranglehold on global donkey populations raises disturbing questions about our priorities. While lab-grown collagen is touted as a solution, we must acknowledge the complexities of scaling up this technology. For instance, how will these artificial products impact traditional medicine and cultural practices? Moreover, will consumers be willing to pay premium prices for what amounts to synthetic skincare? We need a more nuanced discussion on the intersection of biotech innovation and cultural heritage in the anti-ageing industry.
- THTheo H. · menswear writer
The luxury skin care industry's Faustian bargain is finally unraveling. While lab-grown collagen may seem like a silver bullet for China's ejiao demand, let's not overlook the elephant in the room: who will control this nascent industry? Will it be large-scale corporations or local producers? We risk creating a new market where the profit motive supersedes animal welfare, perpetuating a culture of consumption that values novelty over tradition.
- TCThe Closet Desk · editorial
While lab-grown collagen may be a silver bullet for the ejiao industry's sustainability woes, we'd do well to remember that this technology is just as reliant on intellectual property rights and corporate profits as its traditional counterpart. The shift from animal-derived to synthetic products is hardly a guarantee of better working conditions or humane treatment for donkeys. Brazil's ban on donkey slaughter highlights the urgent need for policy reforms that prioritize animal welfare over market demands, rather than merely substituting one industry with another.